Graphic designers, usually start off working in some sort of a company first. It’s pretty rare to come off the line doing just freelance, unless you have some incredible connections or luck. Most of us will usually start off in a studio artist capability. I graduated a few years back, and the first thing I did was get employment in a print shop. I recommend this for most any designer who is starting out. At least one year in some printing capability will not only give you some great experience it really looks good on the resume. The reason is because anyone with limited knowledge of a computer can truthfully put together a file that should print. However once that file hits a RIP, it pays to build your file correct.

Most of the things you learn will come only from experience. When I first started at the printing shop, I told the owner that I had no experience in working with prepress, rips, or printers (outside of the one in the library.) I told him, however I was a quick study and very knowledgeable in design and art. He put a lot of trust in me, and I was always very grateful. I spent the next week with the guy who I was replacing, taking many notes and reading the manuals in the office. Later, I found out I was the only one to ever read the manuals.

There are so many things that must be looked at when preparing files for print, and I’m gonna try to go over a few of them. I can’t go over all of them, since each project brings it’s own “joys” and “surprises”, plus if I told you all I knew, then why would anyone hire me?

Most of this isn’t brain surgery, it’s about attention to detail. I’ll use a christmas card that recently got rejected, for my sample. I tend to stick to indesign for almost all my layouts, even single page. It’s nice because it usually takes all my files and puts them into a nice folder, for me.

So, first thing is check out the file. Also, some things will depend on the project and if you have any questions, ask the printer. Check the size, bleed, etc… ensure they are what they need to be.

Then, if you have raster artwork check out it’s ppi. We want, for most printed pieces, to be an effective 300. If doing larger work, you can get away with 50-200. The further away, the smaller you can get away with. Sometimes it’s actually smarter, especially if your system, or the printer’s system cannot handle very large files.

I hear CS4 is supposed to be more clear on this, but I have yet to win the lottery and purchase it. I can see by looking at the info pallette, that the selected image is a jpeg. (One thing I prefer to do now with such files is to change to a PSD or TIFF format.) You can see that I need to change it’s color space from RGB to CMYK. This is pretty crucial when desiring a color match. However, if “pop” is what you seek and you are not too worried about color accuracy you might want to look at keeping it in RGB. Ask your printer.

As for images my personal rule is TIFFs, PSDs, PDFs or AI files only. Some people like eps files, but in my experience it can cause problems. I do not like to use jpegs at all. They can work, as far as I’ve seen, but after learning how compression works, I don’t like them. Let the webbers keep the jpegs and pngs.

We can see it’s resolution is 1200 dpi. The Actual is what the image is, whereas the Effective is what it is in the InDesign file.

Quick note to those using InDesign for the first time, or looking over the shoulder of someone using it (yeah, I see you there you AE), the images on screen are not to be used for clarity or image quality. InDesign likes to use a lo-res view of images so as not to choke the computer so much.

While we are checking color spaces, let’s make sure all the colors in the InDesign are CMYK.

As for fonts, I like to do my copy in InDesign. The advice I was given since day one of this graphic design trek was to never use Photoshop for text. However there will be times when you want/need certain effects from Photoshop or maybe even from Illustrator. I like to save a layer in both with outlined fonts.

It is very helpful to clearly label all layers, as well.

Now let’s package for output.

This is important. Ensure the four I have checked are checked. This will make a font folder folder and an image folder. I’ve learned that the second from the bottom should ensure any fonts in the images are carried over as well.

Double check all this. Now you have a folder of the Natives ready for print. Now I like to include a pdf with the files. This helps, along with a print out, so the printer can visually see what it should come out as.

As for the pdf, let’s make a pdf that should be print ready.

I have had no problems with the PDF/X-1a, I do like to use 2003 flavor. As Adobe is constantly adding new features, and RIPs don’t you can experience problems with transparencies, clipping masks, gradients and other situations. This is also the reason I go for an Acrobat 8 (PDF 1.7). And I always View PDF after Exporting. This is to double check problems. One thing I’ve learned on this is to NOT use Apple’s Preview as a default PDF viewer. It tends to compress like a bad printer, use Acrobat Professional.

Now, since I have this built to size with InDesign’s built in Crops and Bleed I turn them on, and change the offset so it sits outside of the Bleed marks. If Bleed is set, then ensure the toggle is turned on. Also, I sometimes use the Slug Area for crucial notes. But if this is for Print, you might want to have that turned off, and make a lores version, Clearly Labeled “NOT FOR PRINT”, with the Slug Area on.

Well, I covered a lot, I think. I’m sure this will be helpful to some, and common knowledge for others. If you caught something I missed or have other helpful advice, leave a comment.